Nezávislá Černá Hora: sen, který se stal skutečností

(Ivana Povolná)

Mnoho evropských zemí má za sebou tisíciletou historii jako samostatné státy. Černá Hora nedávno oslavila rok od znovunabytí vlastní nezávislosti. Co se změnilo v této svérázné přímořské zemičce, kterou nepokořil Napoleon, ani nájezdy z Osmanské říše?

Stíny minulosti
Úzkou silnici vedoucí z chorvatsko-černohorského hraničního přechodu Debeli Brijeg dnes lemují bilboardy propagující vodu nejmenované značky, zatímco po oslavných plakátech srbských válečných hrdinů/zločinců, které ještě v sezóně 2005 obšťastňovali přijedší turisty, není ani památky.
Čerstvá ranní bríza rozehrává na pobřeží boky Kotorské desítky vlajek s hrdým černohorským orlem na červeném poli. Konečně jsem se ocitla v srdci nacionalistů? Pohled do průvodce zchlazuje moji horlivost. Právě včera se slavil jeden z nejdůležitějších dní v roce - 13.červenec, den kdy byla Černá Hora poprvé uznána jako samostatná (Berlínský kongres, 1878). V brzkém ránu ještě nevybyl čas vlajky sundat.

Uvidíme tu někdy "hvězdičky"? (Foto: Lenka Brachtlová, Ulcinj, červenec 2007)

Lidé, kteří mají co ztratit
"Jasně, že jsem v referendu hlasoval pro nezávislost", říká dvacetišestiletý Černohorec Miki, "kdyby to nevyšlo, tak bych si tu dnes s vámi nemusel vůbec povídat", dodává jedním dechem. Stejně jako další stovky černohorských mladíků, se Miki úspěšně vyhýbal povinnosti sloužit za "kosovské války" (1999) v jugoslávské armádě. "Prostě jsem nechtěl dělat věci, které bych dělat musel", naráží Miki na ne vždy korektní akce jugoslávských vojáků. Nová vláda ho definitivně zprostila jakékoliv trestní odpovědnosti za jeho tehdejší neloajálnost.

"Mám spoustu srbských kamarádů, kteří volili v referendu ne, ale i jim teď dochází, že bez Srbska se žije daleko snadněji" shrnuje Miki většinový názor Černohorců. Vždyť bez Srbska směřuje Černá Hora kvapným krokem vstříc Evropské Unii, jejíž platidlo euro již používá. Nejen pro to je Černá Hora čím dál populárnější turistickou destinací. Turistů si tu umí opravdu vážit a to i těch českých. Není mnoho zemí, kde dostanete kompletní jídelní lístek v češtině a navíc majitel restaurace osobně vyhodí neodbytnou skupinku mladíků, kteří podle něj nepoužili správný způsob "balení slečny".

Tak kolik jsme jich chytli dneska? Rušný Bulevar maršala Tita v centru Ulcinje (Foto: Lenka Brachtlová, Ulcinj, červenec 2007)

Ulcinjská riviéra
Černá Hora je jednou z mála opravdu multikulturních ostrůvků v moři vzrůstajících problémů. Vedle sebe tu zatím bez větších potíží dokáží žít muslimové, pravoslavní i katolíci. Obyvatelé Černé Hory tvoří pestrou etnickou směsice (Černohorci 40%, Srbové 30%, Albánci 7%, Bosňáci 9% - údaje z roku 2003). Například v opštině Ulcinj, která se nachází u hranic s Albánií, se podíl albánského etnika pohybuje podle posledních odhadů kolem 85%. Zatímco Kosovští Albánci hrdě

připomínají komu toto území patřilo do roku 1878 (Osmanské říši), mnoho Černohorců vidí údajnou albánskou iredentu jako pouhý nástroj srbských nacionalistů k zastrašení voličů v referendu o samostatnosti.

Mešita Namazdjah v centru Ulcinje (Foto: Lenka Brachtlová, Ulcinj, červenec 2007)


Návštěvu Černé Hory končím v olivovém háji blízko města Ulcinj - v zátoce ukryté mezi horami. V mnoha průvodcích se mluví o tomto polozapomenutém kempu Valdanos, jako o nevšedním zážitku úžasné přírody a omamného klidu. O čem se v průvodci raději mlčí je fakt, že toto místo dříve patřilo jugoslávské (srbské) armádě a proto se také stalo cílem bombardování Severoatlantické aliance v roce 1999. Současnými návštěvníky kempu, který se mimochodem vyznačuje nezvyklou čistotou a uklizeností, jsou především srbští turisté. Možná právě v tomto báječném a klidném místě s bohatou historií v tichosti kontemplují o tom, jaká další část Srbska dostane samostatnost.

Kosovo, Vojvodina, Sandžak???

Velké prádlo aneb zákoutí u mešity (Foto: Lenka Brachtlová, Ulcinj, červenec 2007)

English translation:

Independent Montenegro: when the dreams come true

Lots of European countries can be pride of a long period of independent history. Montenegro is currently celebrating a first year since regaining its own independence. What was changed in this specific country, which was not conquered by Napoleon neither by raids of Ottoman Empire?

The shadows of the past
A narrow road, which leads from borders between Croatia and Montenegro, is surrounded by billboards of undisclosed type of bottled water, whereas the commemorative posters of Serbian war heroes/criminals, which were making tourists happy even in the season 2005, are definitely gone.
Fresh morning breeze is playing a game with tens of flags with brave Montenegrin eagle on the red square on the coast of Boka Kotorska (Bay of Kotor). Am I finally in the heart of nationalists? Short look into the guidebook is cooling my eagerness. Yesterday there was one of the most important days in the history of Montenegro – 13th July, the day when Montenegro was admitted for a first time as an independent country (by the Berlin Congress in 1878). In the early morning there was not a time to take off the flags.

Picture 1: When is it going to be with “stars”?

People, which have something to lose
“Of course I voted yes in the independence referendum”, said Miki - twenty six years old Montenegrin, “if it had not clapped I wouldn’t probably talk with you today”, Miki added with one breath. Like hundreds of Montenegrin youths, Miki was successfully avoiding the service at “Kosovo war” (1999) in Yugoslavian army. “I just did not want to do things, which I would probably do” Miki alluded to not all the time clear actions of Yugoslavian soldiers. The new government definitely excuse him from any responsibility for his previous disloyalty.
“I have many Serbian friends, which voted NO in referendum, but even they have to admit that without Serbia is life much easier”, Miki summed up the major opinion of Montenegrins. After all Montenegro without Serbia came much closer towards entering the European Union, which currency is there already used. Not only for this Montenegro is becoming a popular tourist destination. They know how to treat a tourist - even the Czech one. There are not so many countries, where one gets a complete menu in Czech and the owner of the restaurant personally kicks out a group of youngsters, who according to him did not use the right way how to “pick up” a lady.

Riviera of Ulcinj
Montenegro (Black mountain) is one of the few multicultural islands in the ocean of increasing problems. Without any bigger difficulties there can live Muslims, Orthodox and Catholics. The inhabitants of Montenegro are creating a colourful mosaic of ethnics (Montenegrins 40%, Serbs 30%, Albanian 7%, Bosniaks 9% - data from 2003). For example in opština (municipality) Ulcinj, which is located next to Albanian borders, a share of Albanian ethnic is estimated around 85%. While Kosovo Albanians proudly commemorate who was the owner of this area until 1878 - the Ottoman Empire, many Montenegrins see the alleged Albanian irredentism as a way for Serbian nationalists to threaten the voters in the previous independence referendum.

Picture 2: How many did we catch today? Bustling Bulevar Maršala Tita (Boulevard of Marshal Tito)

Picutre 3: Mosque Namazdjah in centre of Ulcinj

I’m finishing my visit of Montenegro in olive grove not far from city of Ulcinj - in a bay hidden by mountains. Many guidebooks are talking about this half-forgotten camp Valdanos, as about uncommon experience of beautiful nature and dazing calm. What is not said in the guidebooks is a fact that this place used to belong to Yugoslavian (Serbian) army and that’s why it was bombed by the NATO in 1999.
The present visitors of the camp, which is by the way unwontedly clean, are above all Serbian tourists, who maybe in this wonderful and peaceful place, are silently contemplating about the next part of Serbia which will get independence.
Will it be Kosovo, Vojvodina, Sandžak???

Picture 4: Big wash alias quite corner at a mosque

Could Denmark surprise you?

What is so surprising on Denmark? Could this country offer something valuable to encounter with? For those in doubts just come and see how is it to live in Denmark. Or read my notes about my perception of Danes, Denmark and Danishness :)

Landscape a surprise?

The first thing, which a foreign observer usually notices, is the absence of any mountain ranges in Danish landscape. The reason for this is connected with geological and landscape-making processes. The influence of movement of continental glacier left behind plain lowlands. Instead of mountains, there are small hills, which origin refers to the glacier activities. Although the hills are not big in height (the highest “mountain” is the Yding Skøvhoj with 173 m in Jutland peninsula), Danes are proud of their "mountains" and to some of them they counted

even an important function in the past.

(photo: Terrain waves in North Sjaeland,

autumn 2006, Ivana Povolná)

For example the Roskilde Cathedral, which is a place of the last rest of majority of Danish kings and queens, was build on so called mountain (bigger hill). The cathedral towers were serving as a watch towers for immediate warning against enemies from the sea or inland.
The only place in Denmark, which could be called mountainous, is island of Bornholm. Geologically Bornholm is not a part of lowland Danish landscape and much more resembles the Scandinavian mountain ranges. This island of sun, how is sometimes called, is a popular tourist place mainly for Danish pensioners and families with children. The uninterchangeable atmosphere of the island, deeply smelling of fishes (with famous smoked herring in front line), countryside and Sunday laziness is just another site of Danish style of living.
When a foreign observer accepts the fact that Denmark is mostly flat country, the other thing which will come immediately into his mind will be the weather. The best thing which describes the Danish weather is rain and wind in never-ending variety of intensity from the light rain with mild wind to the cats and dogs shower with windstorm. The weather changes could also be seen as the cycles of permanently bad weather changed into few days of good sunny weather. First you try to resist yourself against rain with raincoats and umbrellas, but then you realize that this battle is impossible to win and you just give it up and smile even when the rain comes.

(photo: Grenen, where the North and Baltic

sea meet, Autumn 2006, Ivana Povolná)

If I should say what I really like about the Danish landscape, than it is the sea and the way Danes treat with it. These admirable bridges which connect the islands of Fyn with Sjaelland and the Jutland mainland are just small examples of capture of the sea. The fishery sceneries in fjord countryside as well as wild and unbounded machinery of stormy sea always made me feel sad of not having such a thing at home in Czech.

People
The really impressing fact about Danes is the common knowledge of English, which is not so usual at least in Eastern Europe. Since I have been there, I haven’t met anybody, who would not be able to communicate with me in English. And this fact is even not influenced by age, because even elderly people can speak at least a bit of English. Could this phenomenon be in connection with the globalization of the population? Could the Danes be afraid of slowly deterioration of their Danish language skills? I don’t think so, the Danes just have an advantage of better ability of language skills and it could be really advantageous for them in international relations, business and investment possibilities. The other fact about the Danish people is just small awareness of the Eastern Europe. As I would describe it, they are just not interested in the east countries history, politics, culture and perspective. Although I have to mention that the situation is getting better, since some of the eastern countries joined the EU. It could be seen for example in the newspapers which are full of advertisements for: weekend in Prague, exploration of Poland or Baltic region. Although it is still strange to hear somebody to locate myself into Czechoslovakia, fourteen years since the common state ceased to exist.


Transport
Of the big colossus of transport I like the most its small things. One of them is wonderful system of bicycle paths, for which the flat landscape provides the best suitable conditions. Almost on each street, there are a bicycle routes, significantly differentiated from the road. But also in front of the shops, there are places, where to store the bikes.
The adaptation of Danish roads is also thing to mention. They try to provide the highest safety for all participants of the transport. The example of this could be the special adaptation of the previously narrow road in the village to the crooked road by using of plant or grass areas. Another example is the protection of highways, which serve to the wild animals to cross the road safely, in order not to endanger the motorists.
Public transport is also a thing to mention. Especially the trains with the "Hvile plads" (Silence sections). Here you are usually sitting in deathly stillness without any voice.

(photo: A road, cars and a nature, North

Sjaeland, Autumn 2006, Ivana Povolná)

I don’t know if it is only the speciality of the Danes, but this truly respect for a lot of different needs of inhabitants is highly admirable. As I would say instead of smoking compartments, here in Denmark they have a silence compartments.

Cities
The Danish cities were a big surprise for me. The city planning usually really good incorporates the old historical core into the new outlook of the city, which is mainly to serve its inhabitants with the shops, supermarkets, hotels, banks etc. The example could be the Copenhagen, where one could see the old historical centre with many historical monuments and on the other hand there could be seen these new architectonical buildings on the waterside of Islands Brygge or “Sorte Diamant” (Black diamond) – the Royal library in a modern style.
The binary opposition of “busy Copenhagen” I found in small fishery town of Løgstør in the middle of Jutland. The early autumn morning gave to this town a romantic atmosphere, even though there was nothing special to see, except

of wonderful beach and the naval channel for ship traffic.

(photo: Cathedral in Viborg - Heart of

Jutland, Autumn 2006, Ivana Povolná)

This opposition of busy towns and calm countryside is also one really nice fact, which could be admirable.
The Danes know how to enjoy themselves, that’s why we can find here the places like Tivoli in Copenhagen or Legoland in southern Jutland near Billund. For the Danes it is also important to have a possibility to find a calm and clean neighbourhood, in which they invest a lot of a time and money.
The biggest surprise for me was that even though the Danes act as a calm people, there could happen such things like those violent demonstrations in Nørrebro (Copenhagen) from December 2006, where the young people showed their disagreement with the sale of a house, which they cared of.

All in all, even though Denmark could be perceived as a boring country, with no big attractions in monuments and nature, one has to look more carefully under the surface to find a high treasure, which is hidden inside of content Danish life style. There is no Eiffel tower in Copenhagen, just safe and clean suburbs, green parks and concerts of classic music for free. Welcome to Denmark - land with the happiest people in the world.

France and Its Muslims (October 2006, from Foreign Affairs, by Stéphanie Giry)

Milí geografové,
jenom zkouším - na přání autora - jak to tady funguje a při té příležitosti vám posílám odkaz na torzo článku, který sice není nejnovějšího data, ale určitě bude zajímavý pro všechny z vás, kteří se aspoň trochu zajímají o problematiku muslimů ve Francii.
Takže tady je ten link: http://www.foreignaffairs.org/20060901faessay85508/stephanie-giry/france-and-its-muslims.html
Zdraví Lenka Lyčková